its fine, no issues for 10+ years on an auto ecu. check in my sig for wiring DIY...

there are cars without the adjustment. i found out when i bought an interior piece for under the column, and there was no slot for the lever. is there a slot? i imagine it wouldnt lock without the lever.

There's also something else to look at, if this hasn't been resolved yet. With the older racks, and rebuild ones, the pressure might not be set correctly. On the back side of the rack, below the input, there's a large "set screw" with an allen head drive in it. That is held in by a larger ...

https://locost7.info/mirror/4age_blacktop.php
look in the EFI section

21 = O2 sensor
33 = ISCV

ordering online is always cheaper, all under $4 each at http://www.toyotapartsdeal.com. but I agree, the kits are way cheaper. A lot of dealerships are starting to do online sales, its crazy. go into the dealer and order, $9. order online and pick up at the same dealer, $4. IDK if your local one has...

Swooki wrote:Are you saying the 1J injector o rings are the same for the black top?


Ahh those insulators I can get them at any toyota in the USA?

Yup, and like Nick replied with the P/N for Beck Arnley. 1J & 2J injectors are the same shape, so they use the same insulators & O-Rings

you can purchase the parts at a dealer.

Top & Bottom Insulators - 23291-75010
Upper O-Ring - 90301-17007
Lower O-Ring - 90301-14006

OR look for a set for the 1J injectors at the local parts store.

how did you set the preload with the nut? if its too tight or too loose, youll have issues. im leaning towards too loose

Holy crap! Cant wait to see what the next chapter is...

TRY THE RETRACTOR RELAY, THE UNIT IS PROBABLY BAD

Thats the Knock Sensor, screws into the block, centered under the intake. theres a pic here, scroll down a few comments... http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=92798 :shock: ha... I believe you are correct... I wasn't 100% sure, just assumed....... it looks a lot like the aw11 oil ...

Thats the Knock Sensor, screws into the block, centered under the intake.
theres a pic here, scroll down a few comments...
http://forums.toyspeed.org.nz/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=92798

I would use the rears for the fronts, and get 7.5” for the rear.

Agreed Jacob. A local friend was selling a set, so I snatched them, idk why they dont make them in this size anymore, looks 100x better.

E+S Casablanca Mesh by SSR F: 14 x 7.0 -2 R: 14 x 7.5 -11 I 3D printed centercaps since I couldnt find any. Bought new stems from SSR, polished the lips and faces, and hit up Barrel Bros for repro centercap & lip decals. Been wanting a set for 10+ years, got them as a wedding present from a very...

not all aftermarket hoods have the holes cut. youre supposed to cut a hole in the hood, to match the oem hood, so the hook can go in.

Long overdue for an update, but not much has really changed. just driving and enjoying the car for the most part. big update recently though, acquired a set of wheels that I've been after for 10 years or so, by way of a wedding present from an amazing friend. they needed some love...lots of that act...

Gabriel, the part you bought from BG, is 90404-19001. You'll have no issues with oil return. BRK6EP-11 doesnt show up, look up "NGK 2978", i recently bought these however... DENSO 5304 or equivalent ( https://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/NGK_PN/BKR6EP-11 ) Toyota #90915-YZZD1 o...

1 - NGK #BRK6EP-11 (order online or at any auto parts store). 2 - you can remove the entire filter assembly, as long as theres no thermostatic oil cooler plate. remove the plate and install this part# from the dealer. it allows you to mount the filter directly to the block. most likely wont need a s...

i saw the posts on social media, they look great, those V-Types....mmmmm. start a post in the VENDOR Section

SOLD Full set (4 wheels) in 15 x 8 -0 offset all around, with tires. Wheels made by a company named Trex, same wheels that MST and a few other companies sell, but this is the only company that offered this color. Tires are Hankook ventus v2, 195/50R15, with 50+% tread left. (comes with 2 extra tires...

i have one, but im in NJ. i can easily strap it to a pallet and shipping shouldnt be too difficult to figure out. message me with the best way to get a hold of you, if interested.

they fit between the door trim and the window seal, theres nothing to it. the little pointy tabs on the visor, they help keep them in place. so make sure theyre not flat with the rest of the visor. roll your window down and start putting it in.

you need manual inner & outer tie rods

plug is for coolant drain

yes, ae86 cores. usually the inlet and/or outlets were cracked or crushed. I was never successful at "saving" one. also had others that leaked elsewhere, making for a nice mess in the cabin. I got tired of the nonsense and didn't have luck finding new ones, so I tried this.

CloudStrife wrote:I don't understand why you can't use heater core with 20v swap?

I tried a half dozen cores. All clogged or leaking. The few valves i had were tight and i broke a few cables too. I gave up and tried updating it, yet im still to have hooked power to the heater

use an interior screw, not a bolt. the non-coated, folded over portion, clips onto the lip under/in the window seal. the seal needs to be folded open a bit, you can put them in without removing it. not sure on the plug, but the pic is stating a 30mm diameter hole, and that plug looks close, while th...

$20/set picked up in north NJ
$26/set shipped

2 sets available

These are not like the ft86 trd things, adding rigidity. They bolt right up to any ae86, and look cleaner than the old crusty ones.

Use a doner set of usdm lamps, clip those connectors off and put the usdm ones on the jdm lights. Then it plugs right in