I would also recommend making sure your tires are balanced. they do change balance over time as they wear, and moving to harder bushings can cause all sorts of noises and bounces to come through. the driveshafts on these normally have the u-joint staked into the yoke, so not normally serviceable. Ho...

When you increase the size of the caliper pistons area without anything else, you've increased the brake torque on the rear wheels. Depending on how the prop valve works you can then get a spongy pedal... you push the pedal down the same distance as before, but since there's possibly higher line pre...

WINNING!!!!!!!!!!! That was it! Pried open the flaps, slapped on the valve cover, plumbed the PCV valve directly to the nipple in the EGR-hole in the manifold, so it would start puking oil into the intake tract ASAP. NOT ONE SINGLE PUFF OF SMOKE FROM THE EXHAUST!!!!! I am super-stoked, because I can...

HOLY CRAP!!! I think i may have found a thing.... pulled the VC OFF of the 1984 engine, to see if I could find differences or notice something. Here's the valve cover for the 1984, straight-side valve cover: look at that beautiful baffle! http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk201/SgtRauksauff/86Coupe...

The carburetor is a Weber 32/36 DGV (it was with the car when I got it.) so, not stock. After testing it back and forth to work with no apparent issues, I dumped in clean 10w30 and a new filter. Started driving , got about 7-8 miles away, and started cropdusting like crazy. turned around, went home,...

no endoscope, but I checked it out anyway. two smaller oil returns at each end of the head are clean and unobstructed all the way to their turn-int at the sump. The middle one (which i assume is the vent channel, since it goes all the way up to the alve cover) is also un-obstructed; I can see oil si...

I'll have to check the dipstick length against the one in my other 4AC, it crossed my mind once, but I never took any action on it. I found an NPT 3/8" tap for the EGR hole in the manifold, and picked up a 3/8"MIP-to-3/8" hose nipple. (MIP = Male Iron Pipe, NPT = National/Nominal Pipe...

The regular catch-can connected to the PCV valve with 3/8" ID hose and exiting to atmosphere through another hose isn't even a quarter of the way full. Your PCV will not be working if it is plumbed how you say. The PCV is designed to work with manifold vacuum sucking gases thru the valve. The ...

It didn't seem over-full of oil, when I had the cover off: click to enlarge: http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk201/SgtRauksauff/86Coupe/th_20160327_121634_zpsyrcozn3w.jpg http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk201/SgtRauksauff/86Coupe/th_20160327_121650_zpshkakjthp.jpg I thought it looked normal, a...

another quick update, just ran an actual compression test, engine cool enough to touch, but still warm: Cyl1: 174psi Cyl2: 180psi Cyl3: 174psi Cyl4:175PSI Another pic of all four spark plugs, since the PCV valve was no longer put on runner one of the intake manifold: One through four, left to right....

Ok, then. I ran a 1/2" inside-diameter hose from the vent nipple to an oil container I had, ziptied it in there, cleaned off the engine, dumped a quart of ATF in, and drove it to work today. http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk201/SgtRauksauff/86Coupe/th_20160516_195348_zpsuiql8j8k.jpg No smok...

Finally found some time to work on it, so here's an update: I put in a new valve cover gasket and grommets, plumbed in the PCV > catchcan > dump to the ground. Stuck a mini-filter on the 'intake' valve cover vent, and drove to work. http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk201/SgtRauksauff/86Coupe/th_20...

YES that square plug MUST be grounded for the fuel pump to stay on while in the RUN position.

--sarge

if the AFM isn't connected properly, it's not going to be able to measure the amount of air going to the engine, so the ECU won't know to add more fuel to match the air that's coming in.

In conjunction, you might need to have the TPS dialed in pretty well also.

consider this: 300whp is triple what these engines were originally designed with. With this kind of power from a 1.6L engine, you will have massively increased cylinder pressures, heat, and force acting on all of the moving parts. Like Yoshimitsuspeed said, turbocharging a motor not designed for it ...

Did NOT look crusty under the valve cover, as seen in the photos above (click to enlarge). dipstick seems clean, and even the oil that leaked everywhere seemed clean. Just the stuff coming out of the PVC hose looked dirty. I've already decided to do that exact thing with the oil, I had a whole thing...

Well then. I should've been more patient. chalk it up to spring fever. I put the valve cover back on (not using any sort of sealant) and used the grommets from my other 4ac, and after not starting, spun the distributor 180° to fix the install problem (when I'd first set to TDC, I just went by the cr...

I've got the distributor off because the O-ring was leaking, and I took the valve cover off to see if it looked nasty under there. The grommets were pretty much toast, so I've got to get some new ones before I start it again and drive it. PCV valve looks new, and it passes the shake and the blow/suc...

hmm... you know, the PCV is a good tip, thanks s24a!! I hadn't actually thought of that, but I bet you are absolutely correct. I need to track down some other issues, as the car wasn't even running when I got it.. but the PCV valve hose goes directly into the runner for cylinder #1. This thing is ac...

So, the 4AC in my 86 coupe puts out blue smoke like crazy. Doesn't start until it's warmed up, and doesn't start smoking until maintaining speed. As soon as I hit the gas, it blows the smoke out, and runs clean again, until i start decelerating. I thought that it might be a HG, and hoped it was just...

My GT-S had an LSD to begin with. when I built the engine, I had Weir Performance Engineering fit a 4.778:1 ring & pinion, solid spacer crush-sleeve, etc.. to a new KAAZ 2-way LSD, and install it into the third member that I sent to him. It's served me well for several years of autocross and tim...

a larger pulley at the crank will increase the speed of the alternator turning, provided the alternator pulley has not been increased also. a smaller pulley at the driven end of anything (water pump, alternator) will increase it's speed. Is the NST crank pulley meant to be used with the NST water pu...

Is it the pump itself leaking, or one of the hoses? NAPA and other auto stores, as well as some truck shops, can make hydraulic cables all day long, for pretty cheap. Never took apart a ps pump, but I imagine that the seals aren't that crazy to replace either. As far as steering feel, I got my first...

That is exactly what happened. I believe that the forward capscrew loosened enough to allow bending/breaking. The previous season I had autoXed and track-dayed the car a TON, lots of times with negative-offset wheels with super-sticky tires (225/50-14, 255/40-13). So a large scrub radius only added ...

you'd also be suprised what your local NAPA or other auto parts store has. In my town, NAPA has bar none the most extensive inventory of bolts. metric/sae, hex head, allen head, stainless, etc..... Went to a Fastenal, whose business is exclusively fasteners...they could get me the bolts I was lookin...

I was fine, it was a slow turn through a roundabout. Crazy thing is, I was about to put the clutch in for a downshift to second for some hoonage with my buddy behind me in his SVT Cobra, but the car just jinked sideways before I could even start to drive like an arse. I agree with Deuce that in norm...

No crank means your starter isn't even turning over, and that's nearly the most simple circuit on the whole car. There are only a couple things that will keep your starter from cranking the engine. First, double-check your battery post connections, and the connections of wires to the starter. Check ...

If the tension rod / radius arm is bent, that indicates a pretty hard hit to the wheel/tire. Everything from the wheel bearing, balljoint, tie rods/rod ends, swaybar endlinks, steering knuckle, even the bracket for the tension rod to mount.. it could all be tweaked a little. I think the most likely ...

Good that you've identified an actual leak! That's basically how I'd have tested as well. Now that it's identified/isolated, you can at least plug the port on the manifold, and work on tracking down if there are any other vacuum leaks on the motor!

I'm running a 7-rib largeport, with first oversize (0.5mm, .020") 10.3:1CR pistons (storm GSi spec) TODA 264°int/256°exh (don't remember the lift, either 7.9 or 8.5, but it's NOT the 9.0), stock ECU, and 8mm TRD headgasket. If the head comes off, I'll put on a 6mm for that much more fun. Runni...